. Red Racing Rearsets ...............

. Easy Install? Uh...


Installing the Red Racing rearsets is not completely trivial. You'll need new bolts, a new brake line, and a bit of patience. Or, you need the money to pay a mechanic to install them. Or, you need a six-pack to lube up a mechanically-inclined buddy and hope things don't get put on backwards.


Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic, nor do I play one on the internet. If you fubar your installation based on what I say below, all I can say is "never trust a stranger." And with that sensible warning, away we go...

The Red Racing rearsets are modular: You can buy them with or without the passenger pegs. In my case I have the passenger pegs in case I'm forced to ride bitch. When you buy the passenger pegs, they come pre-attached to the main peg by two countersunk bolts; these are highlighted in pink in my photos (obscured on the right side by the brake master cylinder). My exhausts are mounted to the passenger pegs. If you don't buy the passenger pegs, beats me how you're going to mount your pipes. The remaining bolts - highlighted in yellow - are the ones you need to buy. These bolts are as follows:

  • Reservoir mount: (1) M6x16 buttonhead bolt, (1) M6 nyloc nut
  • Rear brake master cylinder to rearset: (2) M6x16 buttonhead bolts*
  • Rearset to frame: (4) M8x35 caphead bolts
  • Muffler hanger: (2) M8x25 countersunk flat head bolts (Note: this may need to be M8x30 if the muffler mounting tabs are thick), (2) M8 washers, (2) M8 nyloc nuts
  • Mount shifter tie rod to shift lever: (1) M6x30 caphead bolt, (1) M6 nyloc nut
  • Sidestand plate bolt: (1) M10x30 caphead bolt
*These don't have to be buttonheads, but because your boot will rub against the master cylinder, this style of bolt offers the smoothest surface for your boot to rub against. You can just as well use capheads if you want.


Brake Line
The brake line (stainless steel braided, sheathed) must be replaced and rerouted. The amount of brake line you need and the shape on each end depends on whether you have a top- or bottom-mount caliper. If you have a top-mount caliper, you need to buy a piece of hose that's straight on both ends. If you have a bottom-mount caliper like mine, you need the hose to be straight on one end and a wide 90 on the other. It's important that it's not a tight 90 because that's too sharp of a return and as a result will rub right against the caliper on its way up. Where can you get these brake lines? Go to an auto parts store and ask where an Earl's (Performance Products) is.


Brake Light
Using the rear brake no longer causes the brake light to come on. The stock one uses a plunger switch that's integral to the stock rearset. Aftermarket rearsets rarely have provisions for the stock brakelight switch. If you want to make the brake light work with the rear brake, you'll need to use a pressure switch (which is a banjo bolt with a switch in it) or rig something with a spring and plunger switch. MacGyver types can go to a Japanese bike salvage yard and probably find something suitable.


Buying Red Racing Rearsets
Their web site is at www.redracingparts.com. Click on "Footpegs (S. & P.)" and then click on "Footpegs for Ducati Monster 600/750/900/S4 93>". Ca-cycleworks does not carry these rearsets. However, Chris does sell the complete set of bolts you need for mounting the rearsets (with passenger pegs). He charges $19. They aren't in his catalog since he builds these upon request. If you want to buy these bolts from him, go to Ca-cycleworks checkout and then proceed to finish your purchase.


Need More Info?
This is all Chris and I know about the Red Racing rearsets. If you have any questions not covered here, join the Ducati Monster mailing list at www.mostro.org and post a question there. Or, you can ask the folks at Red Racing, but I haven't a clue as to how helpful they are.


As my formerly illegal immigrant
mother who was holed up in Mexicali for a
few weeks would say, Buena suerte!

................................................

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